As you reach 30 years of age, you feel a need of a skin care regimen to delay the signs of ageing and maintain youthful glow. To meet such common demand, many anti ageing creams have come in market. In this post, we would discuss about the anti ageing creams, their ingredients and how to choose the best for you.

Common ingredients in an anti ageing creams:

The effectiveness of anti-ageing creams depends in part on the active ingredients present in it. Here are some common ingredients that you should look out for in your anti-ageing cream.

Retinol


Retinol is a vitamin A compound, that is widely used in anti-ageing creams. Retinol increases the turnover of cells. It helps in exfoliating the dead cells and boosting the growth of new cells. It also stimulates the collagen production and thickens deeper layers of skin, which is the source of wrinkles. Moreover, Retinol acts as an antioxidant that neutralises the free radicals. It is one of the most extensively researched anti ageing agent that has proved to be modestly efficacious. Regular use of retinol delays the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, unclogs pores, lightens superficial brown spots, and improves the texture of the skin. Retinol in the skin gets converted to retinoic acid in a few weeks. Therefore, the noticeable effect of Retinol appear only after 3-4 months of continuous use. Retinols may cause redness, rash, irritation and dryness of skin in some patients. Therefore these should be avoided in dry and sensitive skin.

 

Peptides


These are small proteins that act as growth factors and stimulate the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid in deeper layers of skin, thus reducing wrinkles. These peptide in addition have anti inflammatory, wound healing and skin regenerative effects. They have become popular ingredients of many anti ageing creams, as they are suited for all skin types. Common peptides present in anti ageing creams include Palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 (Matrixyl), Acetyl hexapeptide-3 (Argireline), Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and copper peptides. Argeraline peptide reduces the activity of facial muscles that is partially responsible for the appearance of wrinkles. The pharmaceutical companies claim that it’s use may lead to a Botox-like effect that too without injections. However, the magnitude of effect is yet to be determined.

Hydroxy acids


Alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids and poly hydroxy acids act as exfoliaters. They remove the upper layer of old, dead skin and stimulate the growth of smooth, evenly pigmented new skin. Their constant use also increases dermal hydration and collagen synthesis.

Anti oxidants


Exposure to ultraviolet rays, pollution, smoking and environmental toxins generates free radicals that accelerate ageing process. Antioxidants help prevent and repair damage to body tissue by neutralising free radicals and encouraging cell growth. The most popular antioxidants include vitamins C and E, niacinamide, pomegranate, green tea, grape seed extract, coenzyme Q10 and coffeeberry extracts. Regular topical use of these ingredients reverses the signs of photo ageing and delays the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Anti ageing creams are classified as ‘cosmetics’ and not ‘drugs’, so they don’t not required to undergo scientific research to prove their effectiveness. Thus, the effectiveness of anti ageing creams is a question of doubt. Therefore,

While choosing an anti ageing cream, we should consider the following points:

  • You should search for the above discussed anti ageing ingredients in an anti ageing cream.
  • Cost of anti ageing cream doesn’t necessarily translate into its effectiveness. The effectiveness of most of the non-prescription anti-ageing creams even the costliest ones might not be equivalent to their claimed propaganda.
  • Non prescription anti ageing creams contain lower concentrations of active ingredients than do prescription creams. It is always better to get a cream from a dermatologist or cosmetologist rather then being swayed away by flashy advertisements.
  • Retinol based products should be avoided in dry and sensitive skin.

Regular use of anti ageing creams do have a modest effect in delaying of appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. In our subsequent posts, we would discuss how to use and what to expect with regular use of anti ageing creams.

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Dr Monika Misra

Consultant cosmetologist at Dermacosm clinic
Dr Monika Misra is a consultant cosmetologist at Dermacosm clinic. She possesses more than 5 years of experience in dermatosurgical procedures, chemical peels, microneedling, and radiofrequency.
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